Tilt the engine in the stand until the nos 3 & 4 cylinders are facing up. Use the best rocker stand on this side.
For the Super engines with the aluminium rockers the stands are attached by three 15mm bolts. These bolts use special 10mm washers that have a smaller outside diameter. DO NOT use wider diameter washers as the intake rocker stand will hit the edge of the washer.
The stands only fit one way. Fit the stand using the three bolts and washers and torque to 29 ft lbs. Repeat three times. Repeat this procedure for the other side of the engine.
The normal engines used a cast iron rocker stand that was held by only two 17mm bolts at either end of the stand.
Take 4 pushrod tubes and squirt WD 40 down the tube to make sure they are clean. Roll them on a flat surface to make sure they are not bent. (they will roll in an arc if bent!)
Clean off the tube and fill with engine oil and then pop it into the pushrod hole and down the pushrod tube and onto the cam follower. Make sure it is properly in the cam follower and not resting on the lip by rotating and wiggling the tube until it drops into place. Repeat for the other three pushrods.
Turn the engine over until the intake spring of number one cylinder compresses.(this is the inlet spring on right side of engine nearest flywheel) continue turning the engine until the spring starts to expand and continue turning until it expands to its maximum and starts to contract again. Look at the pulley and rotate it clockwise until the OT mark on the pulley is at the top in line with the timing mark on the third piece case. This is TDC for number one cylinder.
First adjust the exhaust valve. For a new engine during run in set both exhaust and intake valves at 7-8/1000.
We are now ready to fit the valve or rocker covers. They have a cork gasket which fits inside the cover. In order to stop oil leaks, I find I need to use some sealant on the cover side of the cork gasket. Do not apply it to the side that mates with the cylinder head.