13. Distributor and Fuel pump and accessories.

We are now going to fit the Distributor, Fuel pump, oil lines and Generator stand.

Fuel Pump

Install the fuel pump before the fuel pump shroud is installed. There are 2 different Fuel pumps, an earlier A/B larger pump and a smaller C/912 type pump.
The later pump can be used on earlier engines.

Parts of the earlier A/B pump, Pump, aluminium intermediate flange and Bakelite spacer

On the earlier pumps there is a Bakelite insulator block that goes between the pump and the third piece as in the above photograph.

There is some excellent information on this link about both types of pumps.

http://www.type356a.com/index.html

Clean the intermediate flange and take a new gasket and insert the aluminium intermediate flange into the third piece of the engine with a new gasket between it and the case. You need to slide the flange over the 2 case studs. If you do not have a gasket then use some flange sealant.

Aluminium flange in place - use two spring washers and two 12/13mm nuts to hold in place

Next take 2 spring washers and the two 12 or 13mm nuts and attach the flange to the case. Torque to 15lbs.

Grease the hole in the centre of the flange with high temperature wheel bearing grease. Also grease the fuel pump rod and insert it into the hole in the flange. ( it can go in either way)

Next grease up the mechanism of the fuel pump again using wheel bearing grease. Take the Bakelite insulator block and the 2 gaskets which fit each side of it. Now fit the fuel pump using the two 8mm bolts screw into the intermediate flange and they are exactly the right length. They do not protrude beyond the flange or touch the third piece.

Hand tighten them and then torque to 15 Ft lbs.

Later Fuel Pump

This is much simpler to install. Take the Bakelite insulator block and use flange sealant on both sides and place over the studs. Note it only goes on one way with the hole in it and the case lined up!

Insulator flange coated with flange sealant.

Next take the fuel pump and replace the "O" ring seal on the pump drive, and then grease up the spring section with high temperature bearing grease as in the photo below.

Fuel Pump spring coated with grease.

Slip the pump over the studs on the case and take two 8mm spring washers and two 12mm or 13mm nuts and tighten to 15 ft lbs.

Oil line fitments.

Before fitting the distributor, we will fit the oil line connectors to the main case.

Red arrows indicate position of threaded holes for oil line connectors. The right hand hole is for the standpipe for the oil junction block which houses the oil temperature sender and oil pressure switch. 

Oil Junction block

The oil junction block is held in place by the standpipe that screws into the case. Take a new copper washer from the gasket kit and place on the base of the standpipe and screw the standpipe into the case. Tighten using a ring spanner to avoid damaging the hex. Place a second copper washer over the standpipe followed by the junction block and then a smaller copper washer that fits into the recess on the junction block. Finally fit the special 17mm nut that has a thread for the oil pressure light. Tighten to about 18 ft lbs.

Oil Junction block in place with oil line, oil pressure switch and oil pressure sender attached.

The arrangement on an earlier engine that does not have the oil junction block

Generator stand

Take the generator stand gasket and coat both sides with flange sealant. The Gasket only goes on one way!

Gasket coated with flange sealant

The late engines after about 1961 used four bolts to attach the stand whereas the early engines had 2 studs for nuts and 2 bolts as in the picture below.

Two bolts and two studs on an early engine.

Take your four 14mm ATF bolts (or two bolts and 2 nuts) and four large 8mm spring washers and tighten the generator stand into place. Use the best bolts on the pulley side as these are visible. Finally torque the bolts (and nuts) to 15-18 Ft lbs. Make sure the gasket stays in place as you tighten the bolts and nuts.